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June 15, 2018

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PAGE 16A As HERITAGE FLORIDA JEWISH i~,~JNE 15, 2018 . ~r* 5 A dried fruit and nut seller giving change to a customer market, May 7, 2018. Ben Sales in Jerusalem's Mahane Yehuda Beer Bazaar, the variety of a Ben Sales a craft beer shop in Jerusalem's Mahane Yehuda market, aims to combine bazaar with the atmosphere of a chic pub. By Ben Sales ket. By day, it's a traditional Middle Eastern bazaar that JERUSALEM (JTA)--In serves the residents ofIsrael's another life, Kobi Frig would capital city. But by night, it have been sittingbehindvats is increasingly becoming a of spices in Jerusalem's bus- tourist attraction filled with tling, labyrinthine Mahane cafes, bars and sit-down res- Yehuda market, hawking taurants. The change, which paprika, zaatar and cinna- began about a decade ago, is monlike his grandfather and thrusting Mahane Yehuda's father did before him older merchants into a new Instead, Frig obeyed his fa- era. ther's wishes, went to college, "It's changed from end to and started a chain of events end,"saidYosiAvrahami, who that transformed the market has sold nuts in the market for and led to the closure of his morethan40years."Youused family's shop. He became a to see stores with vegetables community activist, orga- and food--tons of vegetable nizing art and music fairs stores I think that will be in the market that opened it disappointing, if it will all up to a young clientele and become beer." brought in a wave of cafes Covering a network of and restaurants. Last year, a dozen streets in central when Frig's father retired, Jerusalem, the shuk is a he shuttered the spice shop crowded pedestrianmallwith and leased the space to a bar. hundreds of shops. Since the "The third generation marketbeganoperatinginthe didn't see itself selling late nineteenth century under nuts and wanted to make a Ottoman rule, most of those change," said Frig, 42, an shops have sold staple foods event producer. "There's no like produce, baked goods, question something changed, meat, fish, spices, dried fruit, Whether it's for the best is a nuts and household items. matter of perspective. You Other stores sell inexpensive have good relationships clothing, Judaica, sweets or between the stores and the souvenirs. It has been the restaurants. The food busi- target of at least seven ter- nesses buy [ingredients] rorist attacks since 1968. It from their neighbors, so the invariablyopenedforbusiness market is maintaining itself." the next day, if not the same The story of Frig's fam- afternoon. ily shop has been happen- It has undergone a few ing across Mahane Yehuda, renovations since its found- known to locals simply as ing: Merchants now sell their the shuk, Hebrew for mar- food from physical stalls, rather than tarps spread on pressed juice and smooth- have remained have con-a produce merchant. "It's the ground, and many have ies--advertising an acai tributed to the market's new becoming an entertainment hung signs above their shops, bowl in English and Hebrew. feel. Many of their gates are zone. People don't come to But it's still far less formal Nearby was Fishenchips, one paintedwithgraffitiportraits buy. They come to hang out, than a grocery store. Sell- of the shuk's first small sit- of Jewish historical figures, to travel." ers will sit on stools at the down places geared toward so when the stores close, the Some newstores have tried front of their stores, hawking twenty-somethings. Farther market becomes a public art to bridge the gap between old tomatoes, halva or chicken along was a gelato shop, and exhibit, market and new. The front of in loud, hoarse, competing there were bars around the Baristas and waiters at the Beer Bazaar, which opened voices. Regulars from all corner. Young people sat market's newer shops say in2015, could almostpassas walks of Jewish Jerusalem chatting over meals and beer they love their workplace and a Middle Eastern market for life conduct business on a at elevated tables, its fusion of old and new. At Israeli craft beer. It's narrow first-name basis--and pay in "It's an amazing atmo- Roasters, a third-wave cafe, and crowded, advertising a cash. The food is kosher--and sphere--good people, al- Esther Bromberg said she wide range of Israeli brewer- the entire market shuts down ways smiling, a fantastic loves hearing neighboring ies and selling varieties that for Shabbat before sundown atmosphere, bro," said Dima merchants yell their cappuc- can be hardto find elsewhere. on Fridays. Kasachuck, 20, who worked cino orders to her--while she But the back looks like a On a recent weekday eve- behindthecounterataMexi- feels free to store milk in their comfortable pub, where pa- ning, the shuk's central can restaurant and sported refrigerators, trons can order dinner along avenue looked like it has for bleached hair, ear gauges "What I like the most about with their drink. One sand- decades. Shoppers lugged and a long-sleeve t-shirt theshukisthecombinationof wich on the menu is named collapsible carts from stand emblazoned with a skull. "I the old-school Middle Eastern after filmmaker Quentin Tar- to stand, doling out money worked in lots of other res- vibes and the hipster up-and- antino, in honor of the time andaccumulatingplasticbags taurants, but it was a lower- coming young vibes that we he ate there with his Israeli of fresh food. Counters piled key atmosphere there. There have going together," said fiancee, Daniella Pick. with olives, challahs, dried were more serious people, Bromberg, 24, an Australian YardenRivlin, whoworksat apricots and rice seasonings less fun, less chilling, fewer expat. "We're best friends. Beer Bazaar, pointed out that beckoned locals and tourists jokes, just serious work, and We make them coffee--obvi- the bars and restaurants tend alike--though a branch of it's not fun." ously, it's all free--because to keep different hours than Israel's largest coffee chain, The transformation began we're all just neighbors and the food stands, so there is Aroma, has also taken up in 2006, when Frig persuaded friends." not too much conflict. He shop there, merchants to remain open But some of Bromberg's feels the shuk has retained In the center of the street, late one night for a party on neighbors feel differently. The its character--even if the of- a young girl in a pink fleece the Jewish holiday of Purim. market's older occupants do ferings have changed. played the recorder in front of It ended up drawing 4,000 not all appreciate the new "In the shuk, everyone a donation basket. Off to the people. In subsequent years, atmosphere and clientele, needs to be friends with ev- side, aemissaryoftheChabad he put on a series of art, who sometimes come along eryone," said Rivlin, 25."Ev- Hasidic outreach movement music and culinary festivals with loud music, drunken- eryonebringsadifferentkind checked his phone while in the shuk that exhibited ness and loud conversation, ofpersonality.Duringtheday, manning a table with a pair its potential as a communal Worse, they said, tourists are the stores are open and there of unraveled tefillin, space for the city's youth, there to stroll, gawk and take are fruits and vegetables and Butaside street looked like Restaurateurs soon began selfies--not to actually buy nuts and sweets, and at night it came straight out of the renting out storefronts and the food they're selling, we open up the tables and the city's Zagat guide. A stand replacing traditional sellers. "It used to be good, now atmosphere changes. It's a near the entrance sold fresh- Even the merchants thatit's not," said Chai Noach, shuk--just a little different." ) your summer By Chaya Rappoport followed suit, reimagining the drink in iced, slushed and Directions: alcoholic variations. It's been a nationwide hit ever since. 1. Combine water, sugar (The Nosher via JTA)--Limonana is a classic Israeli The ubiquitous drink is peddled by vendors on nearly and half of the mint leaves drink that combines freshly squeezed lemon juice and every street in Jerusalem and Tel Aviv, but those of you in a small saucepan. Bring mint leaves fora unique Israeli-style lemonade treat that's across the ocean can make this simple, invigorating ver- to a boil, stirring until beloved throughout the country, sion at home. Creating a simple syrup with the sugar and sugar dissolves. Simmer for Limonana is a combination of the Hebrew and Arabic water, whichturns the sugar liquid, meansit's much easier 1 minute. words "limon" and "nana," which mean lemon and mint, to blend into a cold drink, and steeping mint in the simple 2. Remove from heat and respectively, While the drink may have originated elsewhere syrup infuses the drink with an extra layer of flavor, let syrup steep, about 30 in the Middle East, it's an Israeli advertising agency that It's delicious as is, but you can make it alcoholic (look minutes. Discard the mint provided the Catchy portmanteau of a name in the 1990s. below for my margarita inspired variation) for a fun, adult leaves and refrigerate the In an attempt to get public bus advertising off the ground twist on the classic, syrup to let it cool. in Israel, the agency advertised a new soft drink called Or if you're feeling really adventurous, substitute Arak, 3. Combine the mint Limonana in sprawling ads across the sides of buses and an anise-flavored spirit that's popular in Israel, for the simple syrup, the rest of reported that local athletes and celebrities couldn't get tequila and see where it takes you. the fresh mint leaves and enough of it. With or without alcohol, you're going to want to make the fresh lemon juice in a Although the drink was advertised on buses only, the ad these icy, cooling, sweet and tart slushies all summer long. blender. Blend at high speed campaign was a huge success. Customers begged for the Ingredients: until well mixed. drink and stores pleaded to carry it until the advertising 3/4cupfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice, from around 3 lemons 4. Add the ice and blend agencywasforcedtoadmitthetruth:nosuchdrinkexisted. 1~2cup loosely packed mint until the ice is thoroughly Undeterred, soft drink companies began to manufacture 6 tablespoons sugar crushed. Pour into glasses the flavor-- the drink that had existed only as a market- 1 cup water and serve immediately. iing ploy was now a reality. Restaurants and cafes quickly 4 cupsice cubes Serves 2.